My Top 5: New York Fashion Week

By Jennifer Ennis
Written for http://www.whatshewears.ie

It is not even summer, but the fashion world is already thinking of winter! The Autumn/Winter 2010 season kicked off in New York last week with a strong minimal, practical and wearable theme.

A possible sign of the times, it seems designers didn’t take too many risks and instead focused on consumer buys that could be worn straight after the show. With over 100 shows, it was tough to narrow it down, but here are my Top 5 from NYFW which stood out.

1) Michael Kors
Luxury man Kors described his collection as ‘the quintessential American sportswear wardrobe’ and how indulgent and beautiful it was. Consisting of chunky cashmere, gorgeous suede, flannel suits, fur hoods and beautiful knits in camel, brown, green and grey, Kors’s collection was very aspiring, timeless and wearable. Watching the show (which streamed online), one had definitely stepped in to a life of luxury and money, especially with a front row boasting of Donald Trump and Michael Douglas!

2) Diesel Black Gold
The first show with new creative director, Sophie Kakosalak was largely over-subscribed with everyone wanting to get a first look. Kakosalak kept the label’s ‘rock star’ feel with mostly leather and denim fabrics and added some glamour with one shoulder party dresses, studded booties and a velvet jumpsuit. The collection had a grunge and just naturally cool feel to it with great jeans, plaid shirts, a simple setting and an impressive model casting.

3) Diane von Furstenberg
This season, Diane injected a strong hint of masculinity to her forever feminine look, while stating in the show’s notes ‘I always wanted to live a man’s life in a woman’s body’.

DVF’s strongest show in a while featured embellishment, heavy metals, blazers and chunky knits contrasting with beautiful prints, gorgeous blouses, party dresses and full length frocks. It also boosted an original front row including writer Salmon Rushdie and was set in a fun and fashionable party surrounding.

4) Marchesa
Celebrity-favourite Marchesa designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig used Irish born dancer Lola Montez as inspiration this season. As per usual, the evening dresses were laced, embellished, beautifully sculpted and with great attention to detail. The Courtesan collection featured many short, structured dresses and a number of floor-length beauties that will no doubt be making an appearance on the red carpet this season.

5) Tommy Hilfiger
Tommy Hilfiger’s show was a moment in history as the last show to be held in Bryant Park (Fashion Week moves to the Lincoln Center next season), but also the first season which featured contributions from designer, Peter Som. And what a success it was!

The ‘Preppy with A Pop’ collection gave an updated, fresher look on the signature all-American Hilfiger pieces. Blazers were given a fun twist and footwear was laced and/or over the knee. This new younger approach was also echoed in the front row too with the Gossip Girl boys, Hayden Panettiere and Ashley Olsen.

Best of the Rest at New York Fashion Week
Other shows that deserve a mention include Oscar de le Renta’s beautiful and sophisticated affair, Marc Jacobs ‘cardboard box’ setting and Mary Kate & Ashley Olsen’s low-key The Row line which is gathering a firm following.

Alice & Olivia’s gorgeous dresses, Rodarte’s beautiful prints, and Jeremy Scott’s usual splash of colour and crazy were also on my radar.

With London now underway, and Milan and Paris on the horizon, Autumn/Winter 2010 is shaping up to be a good one!